When I first saw this book reviewed in the Financial Times, I considered it right up my street. Scoff mostly delivers, but is probably better as a work to dip into rather than to read from cover to cover (as I did). Vogler is mostly entertaining as an author, even a little smug at times and rather too class-conscious (comprehensive northerner done good via Oxford). I found her accounts of food's history, how certain items made their way into Britain, most compelling and well-researched. Her recourse to fiction as a primary source for information was also strong, even if there was a distinct bias towards the works of Austen and Dickens. I thought Vogler was much weaker, however, on her attempts to link food and class. There is an over-reliance on Bourdieu's idea of cultural capital. It's hardly revolutionary (or surprising) that we define both ourselves and others by what we eat. Katie Fox (quoted with regularity) is also a far more insightful and witty anthropologist. A great reference book, but think of it best as akin to a menu: pick only certain parts to consume on any given occasion.
By Pen Vogler